Day 22: Belgium loop

Lots of coffee and bike messages around the breakfast room, plus a cute display my grandkids would love.

After an ample breakfast, we headed off on a day ride. We were planning on meeting another Zwift friend, Luc. There was to be a surprise there, but I’ll get to that.

The traffic was busy in Bruges and it took 20 minutes of traffic lights, hopping on and off the bike, scooting, to be free.

Another city gate, with a macabre story attached about a so called traitor who was killed, head spiked at the gate, skull kept, then bronzed, now sitting in a museum.

Smedenpoort

I found this one a bit creepy. He has pulled the fish out of the pelicans mouth. I don’t like this kind of imagery. The pelican deserves to eat! Go catch your own fish!

Peaceful rivers and canals.

Loppem castle was built in the mid 1800’s and now houses art. Quite pretty by the lake. The skies are very grey and rainy.

In 2006, Ichtegem village was chosen to honour a local cycling legend Jules Vanhevel who had previously won this event.

The overall winner in 2006 was well known Tom Boonen. George Hincapie was third.

It was windy, headwinds of course, but at least today we knew we would get tail on the way home. It rained so the jackets were on then off multiple times.

46 km in we arrived in the town of Diksmuide, a lovely town with striking buildings, a super nice markt, and a nice statue.

We were standing at a statue waiting for our friend. Tony got involved in a conversation with a group of Vespa riders. I laughed as I watched his arm movements.

He then took a photo for the guys with their vespers. I was spotted by their ‘leader’ and told to come out of hiding behind the plants. In fact, he asked me ‘have you been pissing in those plants’.

I told him no, but that I did need to pee badly. Truth.

They took our photo.

They told us that 2000 vespers were descending on the region for Europes largest vesper gathering. It was being held at the hippodrome in Ostend. We were cycling through there later in the day.

Then our Zwift cycling friend rocked up, lady on his arm who gave us a big welcome, like she knew us. Turns out Jill, whom I do know through Zwift is his partner. I had no idea, but what a lovely surprise.

Jill, from England, got to know Luc zwifting, and now she lives with him in Belgium ❣️❣️

We had a lovely catch up. I talked too much in hindsight. Surprised?

Jill recently spent time in Australia, as one of her sons lives in WA.

But all good things need to come to an end, and we had to keep cycling.

This are of Belgium has a lot of war history from both world wars.

On the outskirts of town is this war memorial. There is a UN owned museum there where you can experience mustard gas. Not on my must do list.

I experienced tear gas during my army reserve military training. A highly unpleasant experience that triggered asthma.

The next major town was Veurne. Only 10 km from the North Sea, and even less to the French border.

It has a striking markt (yes spelled without the ‘e’).

We looked for some food. I went into one store that only sold beautifully made, exquisitely pretty things. Nothing savoury, so a scroll it was.

We sat outside a church, and I wandered in. It has a history going back to the 1100’s.

The church details differ in Belgium. The ceiling is timber.

The tiled sections of roof.

This looks creepy! Medieval reenactments.

We then headed towards the North Sea coast. I had looked at us riding to Dunkirk, but it would have added another 25 km or so to the day.

Through the Netherlands there were many such signs. Wildrooster.

We figured it out, as each time there was a wildrooster, we rode over a metal cattle grid.

We laughed, as with the English definition, I wanted to see a very angry, free range rooster!

Today we photographed the sign that had made us smile and comment lots.

The wildrooster existed due to these sheep grace grazing along the dyke.

Pretty sheep I thought

We made it to Nieuwpoort.

We thought we were getting a ferry someone out into the gusty sidewinds along the busy causeway. Windsocks are full.

Those are colourful windsocks

A shallow river, controlled by sluis gates. during one battle the gates were opened flooding the lower lands to stop the German advancement.

There were statues and picture frames along the route.

But there was no ferry! It was not running!

So a detour was needed, back to town adding about 7 km to our day ride.

On the detour was this war memorial.

Finally we were on the coast. Lots of sand was built up.

Wide promenades and buildings that were no taller than 10 storeys.

Lots of interesting art.

The beach rolled on and on.

War installations in the grassy banks.

So much beach.

Ah, the Vespa week. We did ride last the very busy hippodrome.

Junky art. Huge squashed metal objects.

Ostende suffered bad,y from war. German occupation, allied bombings destroyed much of the coastal structures. Ultimately they were rebuilt with the apartments.

The old church of St Peter and St Paul survived. It is a wonder how with such heavy bombing such tall, intricate structures do survive. It is great that they did!

It was then a fast ride back to Bruges over 20 km as we had a tailwind. What joy!

We followed a good canal path.

Here is our ride. 122 km for the day.

It was a good day to be out, we experienced all weather but good to be alive.

For more detail, Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Many have asked if I spent today being pampered and spoilt? No, I rode. We did what we do!

Today I turned 64. Reminds me of a certain Beatles song.

I got lots of messages, and three videos, one from each of my grandchildren ❣️❣️❣️, and a lovely card from Tony.

He had pre gifted my present. A new Hammerhead bike computer that I’m using on this trip.

Thanks for reading.

Day 21: Middelburg to Bruges

Today we left the Netherlands after nearly 1,000 km ridden in this wonderful country.

The weather, still trying to not let us go, headwinds and likely rain.

Tempting to stay!

Nevertheless we had our breakfast, put on our wet weather booties (go over our cycling shoes to keep our feet dryer and warmer).

Middelburg was a busy place today, after being quiet as a mouse last night. Soon we were following the canal to Vlissingen.

It was maybe 7 km or so and we were at the ferry terminal. It was about a 45 minute wait and we were on the ferry for about 20 minutes.

The bikes are well looked after. The bikes are tied to the rails.

The ferry is a catamaran and crossed the slightly rougher waters in the wind fairly smoothly.

We chatted with a group of Dutch friends, some living in Geneva. They had hired e-bikes to look around Breskens.

Soon we were on the road again, passing through villages including Groede.

We deviated around Sluis, riding along the old rampants, on a gravel path. It had been raining and I wondered what as going through Tony’s head. Gravel, rain, bikes = messier bikes. 😳😝

Soon we were back in town. Sluis was largely destroyed by Allied bombs near the end of WWII. The city ramparts, belfry and windmill make the town seem historic though.

Close to the North Sea coast, just a few km to the south is Belgium.

The skies opened again in the centre and we went into a small restaurant with covered outdoor seating close to our bikes.

We ordered a fruit smoothie and a ham and cheese pancake. It was huge!

We chillaxed here for a while, as today was short, relative to our usual days.

Sluis sights.

On the outskirts of town we headed out following the canal, there are a series of old fortifications. I walked through them. You need to use your imagination as to how they would have looked in their day.

Look, the sun has started to shine! Still a headwind but, the sun is shining and it’s not raining.

We ride across that bridge.

Within a short distance we are in Belgium. No signs and we are not certain exactly when we crossed, but the residents cars along the canal all have a B instead of NL.

So no teary farewells.

This was interesting. It is a little punt you can operate to cross the river. If it was not so windy with rain forecast, we’d have given it a go.

Scarecrows.

It started raining heavily as we approached Damme, a former major European port. Must have been a lot of land reclaimed since.

We take shelter and keep moving when the rain eases.

Some sites around the town. Lots of cobbles here. Not my favourite surface particularly when they are wet.

The bat cave.

We cut our ride short today by 10 km heading to our hotel on the outskirts of Bruge. I had routed 10 km wandering around the city.

Dark clouds were threatening and it was going to rain again. The wind had dried us quickly and we were keener to arrive dry. we took shelter under a building foyer as another downpour bucketed down.

Then the sun come out and we moved on.

We are at a bike hotel tonight. We were able to check in 90 minutes early too.

Wonderful bike storage and everything is themed bikes.

Near the lift
Adjacent to our loo! Freddie watching over us.

After an hour or so, the forecast showed no further rain.

We walked nearly 7 km into the centre and back.

Bruges is one of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It was declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 2000.

Of course, everyone knows that Matilda of Flanders was born here. Who? The wife of William the Conqueror (King William I).

Ezelpoort one of the many remaining city gates
Lovely architecture
Interesting and ornate churches
Pretty canals

The famous belfry.

Churches

The belfry of Bruges is from the 13th century. It houses a carillon of 47 bells.

Need to travel a long way to get Aussie ice cream
Quaint
Chocolate shops galore
The Provinciaal Hof
Belfry
Markt
Seriously old buildings
Nice statues

We will likely come back into Bruges on Saturday on our way to Ghent.

Today was a short 51 km, but after yesterday’s headwinds, a reprieve of sorts.

It was a SW headwind again today but only into the lower 30’s kmh, and without the exposure of the bridges and causeways.

Tomorrow we have a longer day ride planned, can be tweaked if weather dictates.

We enjoyed a lovely dinner in the restaurant here. It’s nice to get a lift and find dinner vs going on the prowl, when I sing one of Willow’s songs ‘ we’re going on a bear hunt’ changing it to ‘food hunt’.

Today’s route. Thanks for reading ❣️🚴😁

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Day 20: Delft to Middelburg

Today was to be our last full day riding in The Netherlands. We have loved it. What would today bring?

Firstly, another amazing breakfast. Looking out the backyard. Serene. Flower hot houses to the upper right. The geese and their small growing broods over the canal.

Darker skies but it’s not raining, tick.

The forecast includes strong SW. Our direction today? SW.

The winds were blowing. Ominous start as we had 106 km to ride today, heading towards the coast and across the southern islands of Zeeland.

Back through Delft and Schipluiden, we headed to the ferry at Maassluis, to cross the Scheur River.

Waiting for the ferry. It costs 3 euro for the two bikes.

Looks like Tassie paste on that bag?

The ferry heading to us.

Me sheltering from the winds on the ferry.

My hammerhead computer says we are off route!

The ferry twists and turns in the short distance, plus needed to give way to three larger vessels.

Today we are riding through South Holland, across many islands.

Only one ferry, the rest is a mixture of bridges and causeways.

Great places to be in 35-40 kmh headwinds as they are usually more exposed 😳🤣

The wind turbines are in their element. Always delightful riding along and seeing they are receiving the same wind direction. The wind turbines here are much larger than those I’ve seen in Tasmania. These are seriously huge.

Finally a small forest section, where we enjoy a reprieve from the wind. It didn’t last long. We took a break at a table here.

Up to the coast. Blowing like blazes there.

Tony looks, and he climbs up the observation tower.

What Tony saw.

At ground level, plenty of bike signage. A strand is beach. Along this section, there are about 9 access points. Like Poland along their Baltic coast, numbered and designated points.

Tempting to turn and head back to Rotterdam. We’d have a tail wind.

A lighthouse at the southern end of the North Zealand island, Schouwen Duiveland.

If you look at this map of Zealand, you can see the narrow slivers of land we cross.

From South Holland the bridge and causeway across. Then another two around the Deltapark.

There are some wonderful beaches at one end. Today paradise for the kite surfers.

On the other side, no sand, calmer and the windsurfers are enjoying it.

The pathway across one causeway. It looks calm but you can’t photograph wind. It’s blowing a gale with gusts over 60 kmh.

The path is built on the dyke. In places, my legs were being sandblasted.

The best I could manage was 12-13 kmh along this beautiful straight and flat section. Cyclists coming the other way were flying.

There is a tourist train! Does it take bikes???

More beach, kite surfer. This area would be brilliant in a nice summers day. Oh yes, it is summer now 🤣🤣🤣

I look for seals. I see none.

Riding into as much wind as we did today is physically and mentally hard. To help counteract the mental I count things. How many wind turbines? I got up to 39 with one view from left to right.

52.2 kmh wind gust on Tony’s bike computer. We also looked at the wind apps and no good news there, still 32-38 kmh SW for the area.

I’m still smiling….or is it gritted teeth? Rain jackets on as it started spitting.

We stopped to put our rain booties on with 20 km remaining. No more photos.

So then we had driving headwind plus rain.

We arrive in Middelburg and have a self check in. Good bike storage as they also do local bike tours.

Our room has a wall heater, plus we put a portable fan on a bedside table, in front of hanging space, to dry our clothing.

The smell of drying cycle shoes is a less pleasant sensation.

We head out hunting food. It is a quiet night here in Middelburg, the capital of Zealand.

The closest restaurant says no. The next restaurant says no….feeling despondent the Spar supermarket looks like the best bet. Then we spot signage to another. She said yes!!!

Third time lucky, I could have kissed her.

We left with a full tummy and had a wander.

Love the umbrellas. This is where we ate.
I was not going to sit next to her. Puddles!

Just under 1,900 km ridden now. Today was one of our tougher days courtesy of the strong headwinds.

It was tough and you just have to mentally break it down into bite size chunks. We ate all our snacks today speaking of biting chunks. We did stock up at that Spar on our walk home.

Tomorrow the forecast is similar, but we are not riding as far. Shorter day as we head to Bruges in Belgium.

I think the Netherlands does not want us to leave. It’s saying, turnaround, head north and we will give you tail winds.

Tempting, but our journey does need to take us in another direction. Surely the headwinds will give up eventually?

Let’s see what tomorrow brings 😳🙏🙏🙏

Thanks for reading 😁🚴❣️

Day 19: Cruising with Theo

An amazing breakfast, delivered to our table and more than we needed given we thought we were not riding.

Beautiful food, and I gazed out across the canal watching the geese with their young ones. The Dutch geese are plentiful, and many with young families currently.

We thought we were meeting Theo at 10am. He rocked up at the said time, on his bike.

So we quickly changed whilst Theo enjoyed a coffee here in the breakfast room.

We jumped on our bikes and headed off, armed with rain jackets.

The forecast was for about 8mm of rain today, with a moderate thunderstorm warning.

The neighbours have this carving. The bear looks sad.

So where did we go? We followed Theo! We had no idea and just watched our route grow on our bike computers.

The green dot was our start and finish point. 51 km was ridden in and around Delft and The Hague.

It had been raining and the paths were wet. In places, there were some quite big puddles.

Without our rear luggage on, water flicks up from the rear wheel onto our bums.

We passed many hot houses today. Theo tells us that many have been closed, or moved on, to provide for new housing.

The hot houses are mainly flowers but we pass one that grew capsicums too.

We ride through a large park, Landgoed Ockenburgh. The park is part of a country estate villa built in 1630 in The Hague.

A large lake, sun starting to shine.

We stop at a quaint cafe not far from the coast. It is frequented by Theo and welcomes cyclists, having a bar that you can hang your bike on (we prefer those to the racks you jam your wheels into).

There are a few other, seeming regulars, in attendance. One man sits on a pokie like machine inside, a few others enjoying a beer.

Theo orders coffee for each of us and asks if she has apple pie. This is the same as Jeroen in the north. I’ve deduced apple pie is a ‘thing’ here in the Netherlands for cyclists.

Cream is known as ‘slag’ here….far different meaning to home.

Theo is a friend from Zwift. We connected when he was recovering from open heart surgery, a few months after mine.

He has more recently had spinal surgery and has bolts and screws added to his collection. He rides well.

Zwift was a wonderful rehabilitation tool for both of us, and obviously with strong social connections as we have been fortunate to meet many zwifters on our trips now.

We sit for maybe 90 minutes at the cafe chatting away.

The skies start to darken and boom, down it came. 10 mm fell in The Hague yesterday and I would hazard a guess that much of that was just after 1 pm.

The cafe lady had a mop with a large head on it, pushing up the canopy over her entrance. Incredible volumes of water were caught weighing it down.

Maybe 20 minutes later, it eased up and off we went.

At the town of Schipluiden we said our farewells. Theo would head south to Vlaardingen, and us to the north east to Delft.

Theo’s jacket has lots of mud and very wet.

Thanks Theo for being part of our journey and trip memories. ❣️

Riding back towards Delft, further rain threatens.

We skirted around Delft, as Hoeve Buyten Hout is closer to the village of Delfgauw.

Delft
Delft

For dinner we walked about 500 metres to a delightful French cafe restaurant.

A lovely setting, we sit indoors as it rains on and off. We ordered a main course each and had eyes on the dessert menu, but neither had room!

We have so enjoyed our time in The Netherlands. Tomorrow is our last full day riding here and we will make the most of it.

We head south tomorrow to Middelburg, on the southern Dutch islands before Belgium.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴😁

Day 18: Voldendam to Delft

A nice breakfast, chats with some of the other guests, asking us about our trip. Going to breakfast in cycling gear tends to do that.

We rolled out quietly, crossing the cobbled pavement, heading towards Edam and Purmerend, then onto Zaandijk.

Lots of canals, nice homes and farms.

An older junkier boat, but I’m sure lots of stories to tell
Crossing over a bridge, looking down at the bike paths and signage. We rolled down and headed under the bridge.
Wide canals or maybe rivers . Hard to know without looking at maps

This stretch of road was beautiful. The houses all had such features with flowers. Clogs, scarecrows and stuffed jeans.

An old packing crate, clogs and geraniums
I thought these were really well done.
Every yard had a scarecrow

A dairy area too.

Lots of tourists were walking around Zaandijk.

Not sure what this is, but interesting structure.

We saw the kiosk and stopped for drinks. Buitenhuizen has a ferry to transport over the North Sea canal.

It’s free, and constantly going back and forwards. We just missed the first one, so enjoys our drinks and chatting with this super fit 70 year old Dutch rider.

He rides 800 km per week, on the road. His wife is still working four days a week, so says he rides all day, up to 150 km.

We stand just under the descending flight to Schipol (Amsterdam airport). A constant lineup.

We cross to the other side. We laughed as the three motor bikes are revving their motors.

An interesting point is that small motored bikes below certain cc are allowed on bike paths. We have been passed by hundreds mostly respectfully, but some at quite the speed.

An interesting church.

Our route goes through the side of Haarlem towards Leiden, following a path that cuts through villages and flower farms.

Many tulip fields that would have been glorious a few months ago.

Rain was forecast but it did not happen

A heavily picked over peonie field.

Not sure what’s growing here. Look like carrots but likely a flower.

Hand painted tulip bulbs.

Churches in each village.

Always canals and boats.

Old gateways into towns. This one is at Leiden. An interesting looking town, birthplace of Rembrandt.

Roundabout of the day.

Excellent pathway.

Heavily flowering peonies. There was a farm shop open at this one where you could buy produce.

Very modern homes back onto this canal, with internal spots for the boats.

The men were busy fishing here. We’ve not yet seen anyone catch a fish! Many of the men have quite elaborate set ups.

A lovely windmill renovation in progress.

We are riding towards Delft, riding through parts of The Hague. Many beautiful homes back onto the canal.

We don’t deviate as today, at 107 km to ride and it has been increasingly challenging with the unabated head winds growing stronger.

Around Delft there are roadworks in progress and we need to re route. Annoying as we are keen to get there, but easy for us to figure out with our bike computers.

We are staying in as all boutique style accommodation alongside a small canal. It has won many awards including a Netherlands National BnB award. It is likely the nicest overnight (well two in this case) we have stayed in on any of our trips.

The bikes are well secured with their loan e-bikes.

We pass by the rabbits, ducks and chooks.

We have our own enclosed yard, where the sun shone brightly, and enough breeze to catch the drying clothing.

The backyard extends down to a canal, a hot house with vegetables growing. There are also beehives.

The room is beautifully appointed, with a handwritten card and gift of local tea.

A little car we saw as we walked to the village. These are compact and have seen one on a bike path! There is a sign on the back indicating it has a limit of 40 kmh.

So here we are now in South Holland province.

Tomorrow is a rest day off the bike. after 1720 km in 18 days, good for our body.

I do have a route mapped, but there are thunderstorms brewing with warnings, and we have plans to catch up with a friend instead. Who wants a wet bum if you have options.

Thanks for reading.

More details available Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 17: Amsterdam

We’ve now eaten seven breakfasts in the Netherlands.

At the first there were chocolate sprinkles on offer. We smiled. At home, kids might have them on ice cream.

Then they appeared day 2, then 3….and so on.

Today they came in fancy little boxes, and three varieties. Dark, milk or multi pastel colours.

By chance, ha ha as if Facebook has not been listening, this article appeared.

This is just the first part of the article, but we now realise this is a Dutch thing.

I watched a woman at breakfast today really have a good think as to which ones to select. She took about four.

I guess hagelslag will keep appearing, particularly as it lifts the national mood.

We headed off today a bit later to ride into Amsterdam, or A,dam as appear on many signs. By road the signs said about 10 km, but we were taking a longer coastal route of about 25 km.

Statues are everywhere in the Netherlands and we saw many today.

Our first one was close to our hotel in Voldendam.

Onto lovely quiet bike paths and roads that followed long dykes that were being upgraded.

Many of the small canals and ponds had what year they were built. This lake was 1910 I think. Some of the canals were from the late 1600’s.

A village, a statue.

Open paddocks with occasional villages.

The weather was a pleasant 18C. Here is a fisherman set up for the day.

Getting closer, large tourist canal boats become frequent.

Once we were in Amsterdam there were many, with buses galore bringing passengers back from wherever, others heading out to wherever.

The city. We had been warned by multiple people of the dangers of cycling in Amsterdam. We survived, thankfully it was a Sunday. I do not think it was any worse than Copenhagen.

Certainly we were on alert watching, eyes everywhere.

Stopping for a drink was challenging as the cafes don’t want your bikes near them, but stored with hundreds of others elsewhere. We don’t do that.

Then we found a small cafe next to Bagelboy, an incredibly busy and popular shop.

There are our bikes, just behind us, chained to the pole. I take my front pannier bag with me, as it contains money and passports.

Over the road, another statue.

These look nice, stoopwaffels?

I agree with this. My library room was part of an extension we undertook in 2019 and my favourite room. I love my books.

I had routed us around a few canals and three main parks, Amstelpark, Vondelpark and Amsterdamse Bos.

We follow the Amstel river.

We wind our way around the city to capture a glimpse and feel of the vibe.

If I was walking, I think I would use the hop on, hop off bus and take a canal cruise.

On bikes, we can cover a lot of ground, and the highlight for both of us was Amsterdamse Bos.

It was clean, large, spacious with a feeling of freedom, unlike the densely packed, rubbish ridden canal area. Rubbish was everywhere, cigarette butts littering the streetscape.

However, there were many nice vistas and interesting buildings too.

Note the cyclist with huge headphones on. Not a fan as ears are important riding in cities.
There was some police security in this area
An old car on top of a canal boat.
Amstal River
Well known local from yesteryear

Amsterdamse Bos is around 1,000 hectares adjacent to the central city and Schiphol (Amsterdam airport).

It is three times the size of New York’s Central Park.

It has a world class rowing centre, that hosts World championships, and multiple other sporting facilities.

We thought it was great and could likely spend a day here just exploring the various paths.

We found an area that had a small children’s pool. A small kiosk sold cold drinks and fruity icy poles. We just sat back on the grass and chilled.

Walking the dog
Another windmill
Beautiful pathways
Peaceful lakes

Leaving one park we headed to Vondelpark.

Interesting statue with one enlarged breast.
Nice fountain, very green

Then it was back to crazy land, and an anti war protest we needed to give way and wait to have pass.

We headed back to the main North Sea canal as we needed to cross over by ferry.

More interesting buildings and structures.

Think this is an art museum
Nemo science museum

At the ferry crossing I’m trying to figure out how to pay to cross. I ask one lady and she said she did not know. I then asked a guy with a cargo bike, kids on board and he told me it’s free!!!

The ferry is packed full and only takes a few minutes.

Now on the other side, North Amsterdam
Lots waiting to cross. Note the tall building and see the next photo.
Swinging away.

We then had about 20 km to cycle ‘home’ as we took a different route.

This was a pretty area with many waterfront homes.

And….a windmill. This one was working and it was interesting to hear the flapping sound of the fabric on the blades.

Today’s route, 94 km in total. We did this a few years ago riding into London from Hampton Court.that was a similar length ride.

You can’t ‘see’ Amsterdam in a day. But you can gain an understanding of its vibe and sites.

Lots of museums and art galleries for those on foot if that interests you.

We are back in the relative quiet of Voldendam. We went back to the same Italian restaurant, sat at the same table, served by the same waiter, ordering the same as the previous night.

Tomorrow we ride the outskirts of Amsterdam heading to Delft.

We have three more nights in the Netherlands. Loved it.

The weather this week is looking possibly sketchy, but we will take it a day at a time.

Our total km for the trip is 1,613.

More detail on route available on Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

A few last photos as we closed the curtains.

I laughed, directly below us
Nice evening light
Good night

Day 16: Nagele to Voldendam

Nagele is a quiet little modern village and we left after our breakfast, heading to the fields towards Lelystad.

The air was a nice 16C, little wind.

As we made it across to the great inland lake of Ijsselmeer , once opened to the ocean, but closed with land reclaim and the construction of dykes.

It is hugely popular for boating.

As we approached the lake, many wind turbines were evident.

Crossing a bridge, even transmission lines are on large water based pylons.

We then rode along a path on the dyke. A clearer view of the water based wind turbines.

The marinas were well stocked.

Heading towards that tall control tower that is actually a series of antennas. The tower for the canals is to the right.

We skirt around Lelystad stopping for a drink beside the canal.

We may have had a stroopwafel too 😁

We watched a very large oil or gas barge enter the lock plus two yachts. We then realised we should get moving as the bridge would need to lift for the two yachts.

Tony had just passed the first of four gate barriers when the loud warning bells went off for the bridge lift. He still had three more barriers to pass, loud bells sounding. Pedal faster Tony!

I stopped before the first barrier and watched the section of bridge lift.

The first of the two yachts passing under.

This was a very interesting section of today’s ride. The causeway or dyke is the longest we have ever ridden.

I was thankful that the headwinds were minor, and relief from the increasing heat. Being out in this 26 km or so causeway in stormy weather would be awful.

A blown up route map showing the causeway.

The area is also a national park. Certainly lots of bird life out here.

Reserve for dumping bikes too.

For the most part, we could not see the cars. This is very early on where the land to the right still clear. Ultimately we are mid way along the dyke, with some slope up to the left, slope down to the right.

Geese and ducks dominate.

And these gnat like bugs seen mucking up this photo. We ate them, breathed then and later when we showered, they were all through the various layers of my clothing.

In my bra, under my jersey, under my gilet. Strange how they get in as the jersey was zipped up.

Surprisingly just over half way across was a jut of land to the right supporting this cafe. It would seem rude not to stop and have a drink.

We ordered an iced coffee. Not sure where the coffee was in the drink but it was enjoyable anyhow.

English signage in the middle of the Netherlands.

As we left, this truck had interesting signage about the environmental benefits of a large double deck truck. The panel in green also espouses its benefits.

The last section of the dyke we reached a high point and could see over the road lanes to ‘the other side’. Vegetation had changed and it was quite sandy and grassy.

There were beaches on our side with sand, and people who had ridden out to swim.

Nearly across now as the town of Enkhuizen comes into clear sight.

There is another canal as the causeway area joins the mainland. Here there is a canal boat crossing the road! You can see the top of the canal boat to the left of the cement section.

The road and bike path descends under the canal. Pretty cool engineering.

We now follow the coast down towards our destination of Voldendam.

Pretty houses, canals, coastal scenes abound. Another pleasant section to ride.

The day has heated up to be in the mid 20’s.

This was interesting. There were three of three gangs working this field picking I’m not sure what. They worked in this line, and the music was very loud.

On the path Tony managed to snap this coffin on wheels. We’ve seen a few this trip. They move fast.

We noted the very neat hedge.

You can always pick a village by an area with a church spire.

Little beach area.

Mini me working windmill.

Nearby the big me.

We deviated into Hoorn looking for a supermarket. The town was a bit crazy being lunchtime Saturday. We took a few photos and headed back to the dyke.

We took a few photos in the market square area.

A large shell statue on the outskirts.

Following the dyke, on the inner side, as there was no path waterside, we noted these umbrellas. We presumed that people had gone up there with them. Closer inspection revealed that there were multiple umbrellas for the sheep to seek shade.

The Dutch look after their sheep better than Australia.

We are in Zeevang, per the map.

View from the top of the dyke, looking northwards.

Thee I am waiting for Tony to get off the dyke.

Some interesting modern homes.

The sun was in a bad spot when we took this one, but the statue is called Venus. She wears gumboots.

We detoured through Edam. This is looking down the canal. We may ride through Edam again tomorrow.

Now we are in Voldendam staying in a waterfront hotel. The bikes are down in a hold with the alcohol, food stores, laundry and adjacent to their kitchen.

The view from our bedroom.

We have to be inventive today drying our washing.

We felt it wrong to hang too much out given the restaurant and bar below.

A 101 km today. Our total is over 1500 km now.

We had a lovely dinner at an Italian restaurant not too far away, being the first customer when it opened at 5 pm.

We then grabbed some gelato from the supermarket to finish. $1.99 for a tub versus over $2 a scoop at a shop.

Not sure why the eggs are coloured.

Some nice views out our window.

We are here for two nights. We are only 10 km north of Amsterdam. We will do a day trip there tomorrow.

Our route today.

Thanks for reading 🚴❣️😊

More detailed route available Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 15: Ameland Island to Nagele

Another yummy breakfast made by our host Anneke. I love these cute mugs.

One thing about cycle touring, you don’t buy souvenirs, as you have to carry them.

Down to the ferry terminal, the temperature was cool and it was windy. Rain was forecast today.

The bikes are first onto the ferry, last off on the other side. They are simply leaned against the side which works fine as the water is flat.

Ominous skies.

Then just like that, the skies improve.

There is just one drive on deck for cars and trucks. We are amazed at how many big trucks were on both trips. Many walk on passengers too.

We head out of Holwerd and of course, a windmill.

Cruising along and we needed to stop here for five minutes or so whilst this very large herd of cows crossed the farm to the green paddocks ‘on the other side’.

An unusual letterbox?

Many beautiful villages today with gorgeous canals and waterside homes. All looks very peaceful.

Where there are canals there are bridges. These ones I do not like. They are steep. I push my bike up and with a degree of trepidation roll down the other side.

A super cute, young foal.

The biggest junk heap we’ve seen on the trip so far. Two boats that seem to collect …junk! But they are proud Dutch.

Villages and more canals.

Roundabout of the day

This is coming into Leeuwarden the largest town we negotiated today.

A population of around 130,000 and continuously inhabited since the 10th century they, it was also a former royal residence.

These seven metre high white sculpture are called Love. The mist is meant to be around two metres in height, but I think the very strong wind played havoc today.The artist is Spanish, by the name Plensa.

We had been subjected to strong headwinds (a southerly today, and of course, our direction), since the start today. The temperature was in the high 20’s.

We stopped a few times to grab cold drinks.

Some shade was always welcomed.

We saw a few of these towers today, with bells.

A cat statue in a small roundabout. Tony thinks we should have one in Possum for Puddles ( RIP 2013) who was a local ‘identity’ or dog hazard as she launched out at dogs.

More churches. They all have clocks and this looks the right time.

We needed more water and stopped at this farm. Many farms here operate cafes.

A large working farm that has icecream. Very nice too, plus we topped our water bottles up in the bathroom.

Many canals have lift bridges. The first one we’ve needed to wait for.

This yacht sailed through, tacking multiple times to get the line right.

More pretty canals.

Nice water front cafe

Time has moved on. 2.30 pm and another church.

This espalier is impressive.

I took this photo on my iPad. Whilst doing so, an elderly Dutch man approached me, chatting away. We had quite the conversation with neither having a clue what the other was saying. Smiling crosses barriers though.

Another bell tower.

With 34 km to go we stopped for more liquid at a supermarket. We sat outside drinking it and heard thunder. Yet the sky was blue.

Within 5 minutes it was raining and we had our jackets on. The wind was fearsome. I do hate riding when I hear thunder.

Then just like that, it stopped.

We motored on for about 5 km and had a tailwind.

Emmeloord looks like a nice town, but the thunder started again, and the winds got super wild and we were not stopping for photos.

The skies darkened and it was quite dark riding but I did not take my shaded protective glasses off as I needed to protect my eyes.

The last 9 km was unpleasant. We just rode and watched the lightning, counting to the thunder. Around 20 seconds so still a bit away.

The wind was coming from the side now. Gusts of 67 kmh per our data. We watched one lady on her ebike blow right off the path.

I was thankful that we were on a path and not the road where we had more space to control the inevitable sideway push. The trees were dropping twigs and small branches.

I kept counting. The time between the lightning and thunder, plus how many km remained. I was just hoping we could get there in time.

Dirt was being blown from dry paddocks.

In between thunder claps we did stop for one moment to take these two photos.

To the right, where the storm was blowing us from
To the left, a bit brighter.

We were so relieved to get to our overnight destination just as the skies opened and the storm was on us. Our host quickly opened his garage.

Riding you don’t get such alerts.

Hoping for better weather tomorrow, as we wind our way towards Amsterdam.

We are now in a converted bank, including the original safe. It’s been very well done and the owners are a lovely younger Dutch couple who moved here from Rotterdam. They live in the attached former managers home and did this conversion.

There is lots of orange here, walls and curios.

There is also a large bath, and I did enjoy soaking in it last night.

Today we rode 106 km, bringing our total now to 1,419 km.

Thanks for joining us ❣️😳🚴

Day 14: Ameland Island

I recall Frisian Islands reading Bernard Cornwall’s books about Uhtred, son of Uhtred….I am sure that there are references to seeking safe passage here. I must read the series again.

Then last year, as we started our journey home from Denmark, we flew from Copenhagen to London. It was a fine day and I had the window seat.

We flew over the Wadden Sea and from the air I saw the islands and next opportunity got my maps out and saw West Frisian Islands.

This then formed part of the motivation for this trip to visit one.

Ameland is the third major island with Terschelling to the west, Shiermonnikoog to the east. Easier to spell too!

The Wadden Islands form a barrier between the North Sea and Wadden Sea.

Total population is around 3,800, boasting four villages.

Today we covered most of the island. Including the four villages. Total km of 60.

Firstly we had a very nice breakfast delivered to our door by our hosts, up their incredibly steep, narrow stairs.

The strawberries were divine.

We headed down to the local information building to grab some cash from the atm. We needed 8 euro for the local tourist tax.

We then followed the dyke path to the north east, as far as you can ride.

Near Nes, the tide is high

There are some glorious beaches. There are oil platforms off shore.

The paths varied. This one is very interesting as it is all shells. Whole and crushed. Quite muddy, so thinking that it might be from dredging the channels. Either side of the path is sand.

This is as far we can ride to the island extreme in this direction. There are walking paths to either side.

A long walk to the beach.

Nature signs abound.

Looking back towards me, where we parked the bikes.

We then ride to the highest point on the island. 24 metres above sea level😁. We were 35metres below sea level earlier, hence the importance of the dykes.

Melbourne is listed, as the furtherest away point.

There are nice views across the island.

Part of one of the offshore platforms, looking across the sand dunes.

The pathway up to the highest point
Signage at the base of the path
More signage
More views

We then weaved our way up the other end, through each village and covering as much coast as possible.

Use of an old cargo bike. Very popular here and in Scandinavia to cart the kids in.

When does a horse become a zebra in disguise? The head cover also goes over its eyes, with the horse being able to see through the mesh.

A lake near Nes with a few twists, turns and bridges.

Oh, a windmill.

Then chaos hit. School children on bikes, everywhere. Peace and serenity gone as they squeal, shout, weave around on the paths.

Most of the teachers were pretty good, some more laissez faire.

We were coming in the opposite direction to this group, not much space for us.

This group were going in the same direction. You either sit back at their 20 rpm cadence, or you pass them. We overtook this group of about 30 and they held their line pretty well.

More beach and sand dunes.

Look how far the tide is out here. You can see some people walking in the distance.

The famous lighthouse, popular for viewing sunsets. There are a group of school kids up there shouting and calling out to mates below.

Nice pathway beside the road, no school kids in sight.

This was interesting. I had not heard of the Atlantic Wall. There are 6,000 km of a long German defence line from Norway to Spain. Here is one of those bunkers.

The Germans occupied Ameland during WWII but were never attacked as the Allies left them alone, as not seen as strategic.

Signage
Bunker locations
Small museum
A bunker

Just a few hundred metres away, hundreds of gnomes.

Just one small section of gnome ville

This new house has a fine thatch roof.

The village of Hollum.

Local statue of a man known for his hat.

Hollum is the main village. Lots of nice eateries.

We purchased some supplies at the supermarket, found a sunny chair to sit in. Today the weather was cooler and now it was about 20C so happy sitting in the sun.

Old water pump

A local bike hire place had a huge number of bikes including these interesting creations.

Nice church. Many buildings have their year of construction on the exterior walls in wire. The earliest we saw was about 1688.

Back along the Wadden Sea dyke wall, lots of sheep grazing. This mum seems to have had triplets.

Really peaceful and serene.

Then we decided to stop and sit in the sun for a while, looking across the super low tide, towards the mainland Netherlands. There are a group of people out walking along the flats.

It was another bunch of school kids. The boys went through every soggy puddle coming back and had mud all over their legs and filthy shoes. The girls, much cleaner!

Heading back along the wall towards Nes.

We stopped by the local marine rescue. They have a channel dredged out to the main channel.

Nice art installations.

Cute village house.

Church and local chocolatier.

We opted for a simple dinner, grabbing supplies at the supermarket close to our unit.

One day has been enough on this island. In 60 km we covered a fair bit. Our host was shocked we’d ridden 60 km. We saw it as an active recovery day as we were sans our luggage.

I did this satellite image showing the channels

The island position relative to the mainland and other islands.

A fantastic chillaxed day of riding in a beautiful part of the world.

Tomorrow we are back on the ferry.

Thankyou for reading and joining us vicariously.

😁🚴❣️

Day 13: Winsum to Ameland Island

Another beautiful day. The young girl from the bakery below made her way up the steep external stairs with two trays of our breakfast, freshly baked.

I complimented her on getting up with no spillages as they are quite steep!

Our room was in the area behind the upper signage. Wonderful room with the right hand side roof having multiple windows with automatic blinds.

They also make and sell the granola we ate. Tony gets two eggs as I don’t enjoy egg. Never have since I was a little kid forced to eat it. I have since learned to eat scrambled eggs and omelettes.

Looking across from the bakery, a nice local house and greenery.

Today was a special day. We were joined by our Zwift friend Jeroen. He has zwifted for 9 years, me 10, so have ridden together virtually often over the years. More so pre heart surgery as I used to participate in faster events.

Jeroen has ridden for two hours to get to us, taking a day off work where he works with a leading Dutch tomato producer, in charge of 150 workers, and some high tech equipment.

The thing that always impressed me about Jeroen was the way he talks about his wife and children, with such respect, love and reverence.

We start off along nice bushy paths as he head to the very north of the Netherlands.

This is in someone’s front yard. There must be a story behind it.

The neighbours too have an interesting art installation, seemingly more peaceful.

As we hit the far north, the waterways increase. The north is home to a huge range of bird and aquatic wildlife, including migratory birds.

In addition, there are huge flocks of wild horses and cows! These are treasured and valued, restricted in some ways by the various dykes and canals.

We stop at an observatory. A man is setting up with a long lense camera and binoculars.

A younger lad has set up fishing.

You can see some wild horses here.

This area is in the Lauwersmeer National Park, part of the Dutch Wadden Sea conservation area and a UNESCO World Heritage region.

The zeearend, a sea eagle, is regarded as a precious local bird with a huge wing span of up,to 2.5 m.

My arm span falls short somewhat.

Back on the path and we traverse the north coast and note this fishing net art installation aside the marina.

Morning tea included apple tart.

Jeroen
Tony

We follow the foreshore along the top of a dyke. Hard to tell from this photo but there is quite the slope here. Note that the tide is out.

Way, way, way out. It is incredible how far out the tide is. In fact we have trouble working out just where it is!

When big northerly storms hit, water comes well up the dyke, but the huge dyke protects the super flat, low lands behind it.

An old sea mine bomb.

A cute farm vista across the wheat fields.

Nice art installation. I think this one was called Fisherwoman, referring the husband being at sea fishing, with the wife at home caring for the family.

Village church.

Another art installation.

Hard to see in this photo, but interesting swan detail on the roof. I gather it has a historic perspective. The thatch is very thick and even when you see the edges. Quite the skill.

We rode along many km of path like this, with sheep grazing on the dyke banks, canal to the left.

This section fairly clean, but lots of sheep poo on most. The sheep are often on the path, laying along the edges. You need to be careful that they don’t suddenly move and you take each other out.

Fluffy white sheep with a funny face on the one looking at us. Likely she said similar about us too 😝
Beautifully green pastures that the farmers agist on.

Lots of gates and cattle grids to keep the sheep contained, bounded by the dyke and canals.

A distant village view across more wheat fields.

Famous sculptures looking towards the sea, waiting for the water. Naked and pregnant lady with an emasculated, very skinny male.

Me discussing with Jeroen in the background the paternity of the unborn child as I figure the supposed guy is not the father. He just could not be. Apparently there was controversy as to whether he should have been given a penis! They chose no penis.
Back on view. In wild weather, the waters do travel across the green fields you see, again the dyke providing protection.

The ferry port just 2 km away. We headed there to secure our tickets for the latter ferry. About 45 euro return for 2 adults, 2 bikes. The crossing takes about 45 minutes, yet the distance (direct) is only 3km but the boat needs to weave around the channel.

A ferry out in the channel now, guided by the coloured buoys, most of what you see is boggy sand.

We then ride back out and along the coastline, where there is am area of outstanding natural values. Low land, green, protected zones for the wild horses and bird life.

Generally only accessible by walking or riding, although the occasional car breeches to drive along.

It was super peaceful along here, and we enjoyed a tail wind.

The wild horses are living life.

They look fit, strong and healthy.

Just like these two. Jeroen heads off on his new Specialized gravel bike to do a series of epic gravel climbs in France and Italy in a few months. Hard trails like Alpe d’huez gravel version.

He’s fit and fast and with good weather, will nail it. Training for mountains are difficult in the Netherlands.

The name of the route we had been on. Worth checking out if in the area.

This is an architects installation along the top of the dyke. It is a popular place for wedding photos.

Looking behind the dyke. There is a pathway ocean side, road internal side.

The three bikes lined up.

It was a headwind for the 13 km back to the ferry. Jeroen took the lead and covered us back into the strong headwinds.

We had one final chat and afternoon tea at the ferry cafe and it was farewell, or Ooroo as I say.

I always get said saying bye to wonderful people that we gel with. Jeroen made me laugh, putting it into perspective.

He said, well we don’t live in the same house, so it has to be goodbye.

True. A friendship and day we will treasure.

Thankyou ❣️😊🚴

So with that, it was onto the ferry and across to Ameland, where we scooted off to our home above the house, just 2 km away.

We fell asleep on the couch early and tomorrow brings new adventures.

Thanks for reading ❤️

For more detail this map can be found on my Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)