Day 33: Saarlouis to Mittersheim

It was very busy at breakfast. A Special Olympics group were in with their minders. One of the athletes said ‘morgen’, in the loudest voice, to everyone entering. He was happy and we can all learn something from his L carefree attitude to the day ahead.

Certainly the previous day we rode the prettiest part of the Saar river.

The first half of today’s 89 km ride was heavily industrialised. Not all we see is nice.

Saarstahl dominates with multiple steel manufacturing sites.

You can’t avoid ugly in our long trips

There are pockets of peace.

We started in Germany but at an unidentified point crossed into France.

We found one flag flying along with the Eu flag. This is at a lock. We rode past many locks today.

A canoe centre with nice art work.

Villages and towns dotted the river.

We liked this one.

A closer view of this boat, noting the water reflection. Quite clever.

The river was to our left and now we were on a canal path. A very shallow and green canal.

The canal path was very quiet and peaceful, with little other users. There was an occasional runner or walker, and a handful of cyclists.

It was very quiet with little traffic noise.

The riding was easy so we chillaxed.

Check-in was not until 5 pm today and we were likely to reach Mittersheim with hours to spare.

Chapel high up the hill.

The Maginot Line was a French military failure. It was developed after the French lost 1.4 million troops in WW1. It was designed to force invading armies to move around the fortified eastern front, towards Belgium where the French troops would be waiting.

The French also assumed the Ardennes were impassable.

In 1940, the German army pushed through the Ardennes, bypassed the fortifications, attacked from behind leading to the fall of France.

We’ve seen many on this trip. This one is locked and adjacent to the river.

The board shows additional structures over the river. Only the piers remain today.

I liked this vista.

The Swan family made us smile, with their three youngsters in the slipstream, safe.

We are near the end of the Vallee de la Sarre. Regular boards along the way, pointing out local features.

Not far to go now.

We arrive three hours early and park ourselves by the canal, under cover.

We were delighted to receive a message that we could check in two hours early as the lady was back from an appointment.

We were only 450 metres away, so arrived at 3 pm.

Our host is a younger woman, Ariane, who through Air BNB lets her private unit out. It is a barn like renovation. She lives with her mother in another part.

Mother for a fee, cooks dinner and breakfast.

This is the renovated barn.

Up the spiral staircase
Looking down and towards her other section
Nice backyard

We had an amazing three course meal, plus gifted a bottle of homemade apple juice and a cheese platter with local cheeses.

It’s been wonderful to chat with Ariane too.

Tomorrow is a tougher day as we start two days of climbing and traversing the Vosges Mountains. Another heatwave is on the way too.

We have now ridden just under 3,000 km, four days cycling left to conclude this wonderful adventure.

Thanks for reading.

Day 32: Luxembourg City to Saarlouis

Today was a perfect day for bike touring. The weather forecast looked great, the route interesting, and we were raring to go after an early breakfast.

Leaving our accommodation opposite the airport was a bit hairy, but after 2-3 km it settled down to villages and rural roads.

There were a couple of climbs, with roadworks stopping me a few hundred metres from the top (red light).

We were heading back towards the Moselle valley and the border with Germany.

Near the top of one of the climbs
I find the wheat fields quite mesmerising
Shadows along country laneways
Open fields, more wheat
Narrow stone bridges

Ahead of us is a very steep, descent. The greenery is the area around the Moselle, at the bottom of the hill. The other side, Germany.

Grapevines, still in Luxembourg

It is a very steep, controlled descent, riding the brakes hard.

Next thing, the Moselle River.

We rode the German side for the 12 -15 km or so we are about to do on the Luxembourg side.

Looking up at our final few Luxembourg vineyards.

The guy on the left operates a pedal boat fishing. We have seen a few of these on the river.

Some vineyards house fancy buildings. Bernard Massard is Luxembourg’s largest producer of sparkling wine.

Cute statue.

Bye Luxembourg and we’re back in Germany.

Just around the corner, German Police sat in a car. Must get boring.

Longer river view.

At the town on Konz, the river Saar enters. We bid the Moselle farewell, again, and start to follow the Saar, heading upstream.

It’s a super pretty river, much smaller than the Moselle, lots more greenery, quieter, less cycle traffic.

The ruins of the 10th century Saarburg castle. It fell into ruins in the 1800’s but the town has since renovated part. You can walk from town to obtain valley view.

Saarburg is a nice looking town, fairly busy with a few tourist buses in.

A small video Tony took here.

The water is not as green as it looks here, but the vegetation is thick and lush.

Despite being a longer ride day, we have made excellent progress. We decide to pull into the town of Mettlach to see what food we might find.

An impressive little town, with lots of references to Villeroy and Boch.

Turns out this old benadictine monastery has been their centre since the 1800’s. Outlet store and a museum all dedicated to V&B enthusiasts and collectors.

Imposing over the river.

My favourite section of the river ride was from Mettlach. It followed a loop and there were no cars, just a walking and cycle trail, along gravel.

Super peaceful and chillaxing.

The river Saar, so far, rates very highly and is ‘better’ than the Moselle.

We sat here and chilled more.

I ‘think’ this is a carving of someone on a bike.

We’re in Saarlouis now. A former medieval town that appears very modern.

The Yaxley flag is flying on the 3rd floor.

The oldest looking structure we could see in town when we went on our food hunt.

Our route map. Three countries evident.

More detail Strava : The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

112 km and just a beaut day.

Tomorrow we follow the river Saar further, and enter France.

Thanks for reading.

Day 31: Echternach to Luxembourg City

The view out our bedroom window this morning. Gorgeous forests. If Luxembourg has a colour, it’d be green.

First to breakfast 😊 we filled ourselves up.

We took our time leaving today as it was a shorter day of 70 km.

We rolled down and into Echternach to join the so called ‘ancient’ trail to Luxembourg City.

Within a km or so, there was a deviation in place and an absolute shite of a hill climb. It was so steep that I pushed my bike the first km. It had pinches of up to 18%.

Pushing my bike I do query our pugilistic choices. Or perhaps a non cycling engineer with a devious mind thought this detour would be ‘fun’.?

Tony? He did ride it but stopped 3 times…he called it some ‘bad words’ too 🙈🤣.

I was able to ride the last third of it, some consolation.

The nasty climb is that first rise around 5 km. You can see it’s far uglier than the rest.

A few photos.

This section is particularly steep, but photos never show the true incline.

Over the top, down and around, and it was then a lovely ride.

The area we are now in is referred to as the Petite Suisse Luxembourgoise. Very fancy!

The surrounding forests are lush, with interesting geology and canyons. The sun was in the wrong position for some of the great spots.

Back across farmland.

Through villages. There is an interesting story re this bomb.

Each village we pass through has an Information board with local history and points of interest.

Another tunnel. A bit longer than yesterday. Our bike computers do not work in tunnels as they loose satellite links.

Part way through this tunnel, there are many large photographs-art.

Beautiful vistas.

Local media towers

Cute train.

More forests. This one has an autobahn just to the left. You can hear it, but keeping such vegetation verges is brilliant. The forest goes a long way to the right.

Luxembourg City on a Sunday was fairly quiet. We pass many very modern office blocks, streets are empty.

Then their local performing arts centre stood out.

Further on we cross a bridge and stop! Looked down. Holy mackerel.

This is a two tiered city. Upper and lower levels. That’s a long way down!

We weave our way through multiple parks. People are quietly enjoying their time here. No ‘yahooing’, music in any of the parks we rode through.

Snaps of a few upper level buildings.

Getting lower.

We cross a popular small bridge. Views either side. Lots of people getting selfies here.

The streets are now more little lanes and alleys, cobbled and not the best place for two touring bikes.

Think the lower region best for walking and wandering.

We head out along the river way. More interesting geology.

Then there was this bunch of Luxemburgers. I did not make that word up. I did ask what a group from Luxembourg are referred to.

We met them when they asked for assistance with low pressure in one of the bikes tyres. They are a bunch of local friends out for a Sunday ride together.

I hope they enjoyed their ride!

We kept following the river for many km, deviating to visit this shop.

Non cyclists, Andy won the Tour de France in 2010, runner up twice.

Since retiring, he opened this bike shop that includes a small memorabilia museum. Being a Sunday, it was closed.

We pedalled on.

Next stop. The impressive Luxembourg American War Cemetery.

It has heavy security. Here I am chatting with the military.

Bikes are not allowed. So I babysat them whilst Tony took a look, camera in hand.

Over 5,000 US troops are buried here. Their leader, General George Patton asked to be buried with his men. He faces his troops.

We are only 3 km from our overnight stay, near the airport.

Life got difficult. There was a large roundabout with traffic coming off the autobahn, and other major roads. We just needed to be on the airport road. We walked our bikes over multiple sections as it was the only safe navigation possible.

We cussed. We double checked routes on the bike computer. We were right but …shite!!!

Finally riding along the airport road, we arrive. Bikes are in our small room. Bit poky but it’s just one night.

Luxembourg is an interesting country. It does a lot well. There are other areas lacking, such as a safe cycle route to the airport!

On the old ancient path today at regular intervals there were toilets, tools, water, seating, shelter.

The paths, and roads are all pretty schmick, well except when cobbles exist. Still hard riding on.

Tomorrow we leave Luxembourg, but still a distance to ride.

Thanks for reading.

The bikes are under the window. Acting as a clothes horse.

Today’s route, south westerly to Luxembourg City.

You can see the next two countries we visit. Germany and France.

Thanks for reading. 😊❣️

Day 30: Sankt Vith to Echternach

It wasn’t raining. None mentioned in the forecast. Grey skies and about 12c when we head out of a very quiet Sankt Vith.

Our overnight did not provide breakfast so Tony walked to a bakery whilst I did the blog.

We needed more food and hoped to grab some along the way.

Leaving town, an interesting statue and close by, information board, milk urns.

Back onto the Vennbahn, and a tunnel. It lights up as you go through. Not particularly long.

Creek from the bridge as we ride to the tunnel.

These signs are every km. So here we are at the 100 km mark. Just 25 km left along this pathway.

Nice rivers.

Interesting sign, translates to “wild garbage, no thanks”.

I have expanded the first part of our route, from the start to Troisvierges. We crossed three countries in this time.

Close to the border with Luxembourg.

I guess we are in Luxembourg. One of the few Grand Dutchy’s remaining, and the EU’s richest per citizen. Its population is small with just under 700,000 people.

We still had some km to complete the trail.

It’s a seriously hilly country as we discovered after coming off the rail trail.

Firstly we found food. We ordered pancakes and mixed fruits at a local cafe with a coffee, and filled the gaps.

Then our day was a series of shorter, sharp climbs interspersed with nasty, shite 18, 22, 24% rises here and there.

Now for me I can’t ride my loaded bike, safely, above 10%. The risk is falling not being able to uncleat my shoes under load.

Just not worth the risk. So I push, and yesterday I did quite a few, short, sharp pushes cursing.

They have multiple signs around with these gradients before you even hit them.

There were some similar descents, and they were ever slow!

In between, there were magnificent views across fields, for a great distance, as the day was glorious.

It was windy, but just a lovely day on the bike.

Tony is in there

Climbing….we did a lot today, around 1050 metres, the most this trip. Some done on paths, some on major roads.

Some nice buildings.

Luxembourg might not have mountains but it has the Ardennes. It is known for its forests and valleys and WW2 Battle of the Bulge.

We bypassed the famous Clervaux castle town, as we headed towards the just as famous Vianden.

I did feel intimidated on one major road section. We had just come out of a 22% push and I looked at the road and groaned. Nice road, two lanes, speed limit 130 kmh and a 7% gradient.

No verge! So up I go, making my way to the top with some very fast cars roaring past. Most were good and moved into the left lane giving me good, safe space. A few stayed closer.

At the top a bike path was to the side from a merging road, over a one metre barrier. Lucky Tony is strong enough to lift the bikes over.

The rest of the day, with a few exceptions, was cycle path or quieter roads. Some views.

We climbed to this spot, Tony noting the nice cars. The lookout is at a lake we were to cycle around, but we saw nothing. We both felt water spray though.

Ultimately we descended, it was a great one. Beautiful road seal, through dense forest. Then a window opened.

Vianden castle. High above the town of the same name. Built between the 11th and 14th centuries. Destroyed over time by fire, earthquake, neglect then sold off for its parts, it was restored in the late 1970’s by the state.

Victor Hugo (French author, playwright etc, Hunchback of NotreDam), lived here for three months in the in the 1870’s . He is celebrated in town still.

Looking down across the town.

This area was the last place in Luxembourg to be freed from the Germans, by the USA, in WW2. It is celebrated at this vantage point.

In the town, so many cobbles. The town must have got a good deal as my brain and teeth rattled. The cobbles went on and on.

Interesting statues.

Nice river.

A Victor Hugo named building.

More river.

We left town, ended up in a rural hilly area again. These cows have wonderful pastures.

Lovely camping spots.

We ended up following the river for the last 8-10 km. We past a service station and grabbed a cool icy pole product, and cold drinks. It was 24c, and we really enjoyed them.

Fancy homes by the river.

What a day. 97 km, 1053 m climbing, is a solid bike touring day.

We are staying in a larger resort just out of Echternach, up a hill!!

I’d booked and paid for half board, so including dinner. It took 2 hours for 5 courses (3 courses very small size so fitted ok). The meal was delicious, overlooking some wedding celebrations.

Another great place.

I think Luxembourg is definitely an interesting cycling destination.

Today I finally felt I was feeling healthy again. Hooray ❣️😊

Day 29: Teuven to Sankt Vith

Ever heard the story about the meteorologists who got the forecast wrong? Nah, never happened has it 😝🤣

Today it rained and rained and rained. Not 30% chance of 0.25 mm this hour, or that.

It rained.

We sat eating our breakfast at our wonderful overnight in Teuven, by the window. Maybe in the next 30 minutes or so it works stop.

Keep eating Sharron.

Joao our host is a super interesting guy with a history that is from Portugal, Mozambique, Malawi and Belgium.

He cooked two extra bread rolls for us for our lunch and have us a bag. So very kind.

Cyclists, this is a great stopover point. The Kings Head Inn, Teuven.

We left, it was raining.

The first part of our ride headed south easterly, then north easterly, despite our ultimate destination being South.

This route to Aachen was lovely, despite the weather.

Much of it followed an old rail line.

Lots to do and see
More great signage

Dreilander, this is the official border of three countries. Belgium, Netherlands and Germany.

We rode on and up as our climbing started. This part is on the road.

This was not. It was a messy section.

We were in Germany, for two reasons.

Firstly I had hoped to see Aachen Cathedral, built around 800 AD by Charlemagne. It has an amazing octagonal dome, structural wonderpiece with extraordinary history.

Charlemagne’s throne where Holy Emperors were crowned, his burial site plus Barbarossa’s chandelier from the 12th century.

Even without the current weather and route, you need a good many hours, and that we did not have.

We need to come back to Aachen.

Some of the sites we did see.

Not the cathedral
Nor this, although impressive

The cathedral is huge, and hard to photograph.

Part of it

My lower body outside the cathedral. No one would let me in.

Mr right knee around my scar is bruising and a cut from my fall. Plus dirt.

We liked Aachen. It flowed well, no crazy car traffic. Plenty of wet cobbles slowing us.

It actually stopped raining for about the 20 or so minutes we were in Aachen, one of only a few rain breaks for the day.

Curious statues and advertising.

Cyclists red carpet.

We were heading to the Vennbahn, a Belgian initiative. One of Europes longest rail trail cycle paths, 125 km in length. It veres into Germany and ends in Luxembourg.

We were doing 92 km of it today, ending in St Vith (on top of the 24 km already ridden, making today 116 km).

As a rail trail it inclines at around 2%

That climbing starts at 24 km, and did not stop until just past 60 km.

2% is easy. But 38 km in the rain and wind, with the loaded bike, does add up. It was slow going today. Slow and steady.

Lots of rail curios.

Plenty of signage.

Places to stop.

Signage of what else is around.

Other entertainment

Bridges you go under.

Bridges you cross. This was about our second rain break and I harboured hopes it might be lifting. I was wrong, but this was a super pretty area looking down over.

The path ahead.

There were a few of these, all closed.

This is like a weather vane. Spins around, makes a noise.

Someone bored with a welder.

Getting closer.

The arch walls of this bridge are used for rock climbing.

We made it to Sankt Vith. A town that was annihilated by Allied bombing Christmas Day 1944, killing over 120 residents remaining and 1,000 troops (presume German).

It’s a modern town now. We needed to clean our bikes, ourselves, our luggage and a well located fountain by our accommodation aided.

It has water shoots last night. Must turn it off overnight.

It was a very long and slow day. Our butts had had enough.

I have a cadence sensor on my bike. It calculates how many pedal revolutions I make per minute. I did the numbers, and I did 30,080 pedal revolutions!

That’s a lot!!

We had a great meal at an English named restaurant, with the menu in French, drinks menu in German. It cost more than our accommodation but it was nice and just what we needed.

In nice weather, this would be a fantastic route. It was a great route in wet weather, but even better in sunny. We could see beauty across the fields and valleys, but the rain made photographing it limiting.

I think it rained about 100 out of 116 km today. The temperature was between 10-12c. With wet legs, and wind you’d think they’d get cold. As long as you keep your upper body warm and dry, then those those 30,080 revolutions keep the leg muscles warm.

I had multi layers on. Core body shirt, jersey, gilet, jacket then rain jacket. Rain cap under my helmet to reduce drops.

My glasses fogged up with rain and body heat. Leave on, leave off…helps protect your eyes from objects flying through the air, bugs, stuff flicked up by cars or other cyclists though.

Enough nutrition for energy still not right. Need to keep at it.

Thanks for reading.

Day 28: Namur to Teuven

A new day.

Down to breakfast at 7 am, the place was deserted. Most food was out, but just no one to be sighted. I called out ‘Bonjour’ lots and in the end, we just started eating.

About 15 minutes later the wine supervisor from the previous evening arrived and all he said was ‘coffee’?

That was his only communication with us. No offer of omelette or pancakes (per the info on our table), no students, no one.

It was weird and for 25 euro each, could have expected more.

We decided to take four slices of their nice whole grain bread, add the Liege white honey and make sandwiches for our day.

Mr wine man would not know as he had his back to us.

Later in the day retelling the story to our next host, he said, “ah, the Wallonia French, some we call French Loonies. They think they are better than us.”

It was a cold start at about 9C and we rolled down the wet roads into the city. It had rained overnight but the day looked fairly clear for us.

A few photos of Namur as we crossed the river Meuse.

The citadel
Looking back to the bridge was had just crossed, more of the fortifications.

The first section following the river was lovely. The Meuse is a major European river, starting in France and ultimately flowing into the North Sea, via the Rhine.

Nice riverside homes
Cliffs
More cliffs, the railway runs along the base
Interesting chateau high on the hill
More of the chateau

Fairly typical pathway today. It did vary, and we also weaved through a few villages and towns and the big city of Liege.

There were barriers, mud, climbs up and over bridges, but overall a pretty good path.

We weaved around a lot as the river weaves, so sometimes we had tail winds, other head or cross, but wind was not an issue today.

It was cool though and we added more clothes as required.

This was interesting. The path took us into the town of Huy, with a citadel sitting high above the river.

We decided to deviate to a cycle cafe, maybe 50 metres off route that we noted on our bike computer. We were 40 km in, and would seek a warm drink.

A few photos as we rode into town.

I ordered two hot chocolates, no cream (slag). This is what we got.

Sitting at the cafe, looking up at the Fort behind the church.

The current fort was built in the 1800’s, but there has been one there since the 9th century.

The German’s housed prisoners there during WW2 before transporting to concentration camps.😓

There is a cable car option for getting to the Fort.

The path eventually ended up back along the river. It became heavily industrialised for a significant portion.

There was a massive nuclear power plant we went around, with the most incredible security. The various levels of fencing deterrents, signage every 25 m or so advising no photographs, the cameras just everywhere.

There were interesting villages and cliffs in parts.

Our constant companions.

A mixture of both.

Liege was to be our largest city of the day. I knew nothing much about out the city except for the famous one day monument bike race, Liege-Bastogne-Liege.

What I know now, is not a lot more, but on the outskirts it has a heavily ethnic community. I went into a small shop to buy a bottle of drink and felt I’d walked into the wrong store. Five men sat around the small fridge and I felt quite intimidated and walked out.

We rode on and found a Lidl supermarket. I was the odd person out in a long queue, but had found drinks and some food items.

The trams run along this side of town which was super quiet. Eerily so. Grass grows between the tram tracks, and they mow it.

In the city, traffic was gridlocked. Just no one moved, backed up for long distances. We were not deviating to head to the more historic parts.

Photos as we made our way through.

Safely out of town, we noted this old Fort Navagne sign. The site of an old citadel.

Green grass fields now.

The latter part of the ride we crossed back into The Netherlands.We did 19 more Dutch km, and two registered climbs.

I was flagging energy wise by now, still not having my nutritional intake where it should be. I can still only eat smaller amounts without feeling nauseous. It’s improved heaps, but not enough for today’s 108 km energy requirements.

Me on one of the climbs.

Note the road markings. There are three lanes. One for cars, two for walkers/cyclists. The Dutch do it well.

Bit further one, the lanes are different colours. How do cars cope? They are patient and wait to cross and move on.

We pass through a few small Dutch villages.

Such a pretty area.

A Dutch flag flying high above a tall, spindly tree.

With 2 km remaining, we cross back into Belgium. One more small climb and we are in a small village, Teuven.

It has a decent sized church, a few cafes, pubs and our hotel.

The owner was outside doing some paving, and ushered us into the garage, where there were already guests bikes.

Apparently I booked the spa package? So we had the use of the spa room, so I did enjoy a nice spa, after a lovely meal next door.

Another 108 km done, 2500 km in total.

A confidence booster after the last few days. I just need to nail the food better.

We have a big few days coming up. Weather forecasts are somewhat contradictory but, what will be, will be.

Our route map, overall a NE trajectory but it’s going south quickly, as we enter the last 9 days and have to end up back in Switzerland, not even showing on this multi country map yet.

More route details on Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 27: Mons to Namur

Breakfast was provided and it was an effort as the smell nauseated me and I ate little.

I soon had the runs….but at least I was not dizzy today!

We headed off, aiming to reach Charleroi, 58 km away, then to get the train for the last 52 km to Namur.

My Hr issues surfaced above 100 beats,. Concerning and annoying.

It was a really flat ride, and I was worried as our accommodation was up a hill requiring a 2.5 km, 5 percent gradient climb.

This was an interesting sight. The canal had a significant height level change. This is a mechanised boat lifter that lifts the boats up, or down to the other side.

On the higher side looking back.

The Strepy-Thieu funicular lift is the second largest boat lift in the world and its 73.15 metre incline is impressive.

The canal began operations in 1879 and its locks and lifts could accommodate vessels of up to 300 tonnes. This became inadequate when the European standard was 1350 tonnes.

It was completed in 2002 at a cost of 160 million euro.

Would love to have seen it in action but no barges in the immediate vicinity.

Charleroi is getting closer

We mainly rode on canal pathways today. The surfaces varied. There was the nice, smooth sealed sections. Then there were sections of concrete, getting bumpier. Then there were old seal sections where the adjacent tree roots had made it a very rough and bumpy ride.

We did not pass through any villages today so just a few photos along the way.

Nice sealed section
Nuclear power plant funnels

We made it to Charleroi. What a mess of a place that is. Crazy drivers, one cutting Tony off as he turned right, he rushed ahead to also turn right!!

We needed to cross a particular road and stood there for ages, until a kindly truck driver halted the traffic so we could cross.

Many truck drivers are like this.

Found the central railway station, found a ticket machine, and managed to purchase four tickets, two adults and two bikes.

Made it to platform 2, the coldest platform around with the headwind hitting it. It was a cold day of around 12c without the wind.

We waited about 35 minutes, the train arrived, and again, a conductor appeared who lifted my bike up and onto the train.

As we disembarked in Namur, another one turned up, and lifted it down.

Kudos and respect to these younger male conductors with Belgian Rail. We are beyond impressed with their assistance and kindness.

We did not get to check Namur out. Rain was incoming and we had a hill to climb.

That’s the hill I climbed. Not bad ordinarily, but given my heart rate issues, I was concerned.

Very satisfyingly I did the climb without any heart rate or nausea issues. I was super pleased as I pushed my body more than I had for days, and I felt fine!

A good indication that whatever drug interactions had occurred had left my body at long last.

We are staying in this chateau. Not a bad place. We are on the second floor and have a little dormer window,

It is a training school for hospitality, so at dinner we were served by students.

They are required to practice different languages to explain the food to the customer.

There are two ‘more senior’ men overseeing them and dealing with the wine.

The menu is set so I was required to have a minimum three course meal. I was not sure how that would go given my lack of food for a few days.

We both had a lobster and asparagus dish for entree, pork for main course and a dessert.

Fortunately the portions were not huge, more about the presentation on the plate. The food was very nice, I ate most, and felt ok.

It did drag on for two hours and we got upstairs at 9 am and I pretty well fell straight asleep.

Today’s routes, 63 km in total. I am ok with that, all things considered.

Tomorrow is a new day and a longer one again. We’ve some tougher days ahead with hills starting in a few days.the physical signs are positive though.

Thanks for reading.

More detail Strava: The Mink (Sharron Yaxley)

Day 26: Lille to Mons

I slept overnight for 13 hours. Unheard of for me. I felt ‘not right’ but decided to give it a crack.

That turned out to be the wrong decision.

If my heart rate went above 100 I was very nauseous. My lung capacity felt reduced. I was dopey.

I gave it 10 km and we went to a rail station in Villeneuve d’Ascq, an outer suburb of Lille.

We spent an hour there. The girl said, using Google translator on her on her phone, we could not book the bikes on. Needed to do that on line.

Turns out, that station is not one that appears on Belgian Rail website to Mons.

So I either need to ride back to Lille, across all the shitty cobbles and traffic, or clear out on quieter paths to Tournai, over the Belgian border.

It seemed we could book bikes on from there, as we would have already crossed from France into Belgium. Same rail company though!

It was a slow crawl as I needed to stop regularly. I wanted to close my eyes.

I was concerned as I thought the anti histamines ‘should’ have left my body. The thing that ‘scared’ me the most was my lungs and nausea at 100 bpm.

That is not a high riding rate. Quite low. Thank goodness it was flat and we had a tail breeze.

Not many photos today as Tony was more concerned about getting me to Tournai.

We did stop here for a breather.

It was relief making it to Tournai. 31 hard earned km.

Tournai is one of Belgium’s oldest cities. We only got to see a few of the sites, taking a breather in the Markt.

The railway station is regarded as one of the most beautiful in Europe.

The French speaking man at the counter was very helpful. I was delighted to see four tickets spit out, and we only needed to wait about 40 minutes.

Down the stairs and then up the stairs to platform 2 was a challenge. I got downstairs ok, but upstairs was beyond me today. Fortunately Tony is strong 💪.

When the train arrived, the conductor actually took my bike and lifted it in. I was beyond grateful.

I was curious that all the on train communications, plus ticket office were in French. I have learned that there is a French speaking part of Belgium, and also a German speaking part, as well as Dutch.

Maybe 45 minutes later we were in Mons. I just closed my eyes.

Mons railway station is like nothing else I’ve ever seen. Futuristic, super modern, clean.

Photos I have copied.

We were too early to check in, so we stayed indoors at the station, sitting in a Starbucks, hot chocolate warming us up. I was intermittently shivery.

It was about another 2 km to our overnight stop. it was up a decent hill of 10%, cobbled! I pushed.

Along the way two photos.

Another interesting town, but after checking in, I went back to bed.

I later reluctantly got dressed to search for dinner. I was not hungry and not really eaten for two days, but have forced myself to eat a few things like grapes and banana. The thought of anything else is puke.

We walked through the main Markt place, rain closing in.

Tomorrow is another day. Will see how I pull up. Decisions then.

Thanks for reading ❣️🚴

Day 25: My Great Uncle, Alexander Harvey

Alexander Harvey was born in Deloraine and went to school at Dairy Plains.

At the age of 22, March 1916, he enlisted with the 40th Battalion of the AIF.

He proceeded overseas in July 1916, arriving at the Western war front on 23 November.

He was killed less than two months later, on 19th January 1917.

The loss of his life devastated his family, including my young grandmother, Nellie Harvey, then aged 20.

A few years later Nellie married James Saward. Her first born was a male in 1921, and she named him after her brother.

Alexander is buried in Northern France at Armentieres and today we visited his grave to pay our respects.

Something I’ve always wanted to do.

I have a precious possession of Alexander’s. His bible. It is leather bound, thin gold leaf pages, Old Testament.

It was given to me by my father when I started scripture lessons (Roman Catholic) at PumchBowl Primary.

Little did I know then how sentimental a gift this was.

Lill was Alexander’s sister. She then gifted it to my father,who in turn gifted it to me.

I’m glad that I did treat it well as a young six year old.

When my Uncle Bern passed away (nephew of Alexander), my cousins Angela and Steven gave me a large picture of Alexander, plus an AIF framed work. They were my Grandma’s and I guess her parents before that. More sentimental treasures.

To visit Alexander’s grave, we had an adventurous day.

We left Lille via the citadel gardens, which are the most pleasant part of Lille. A population of over 1.2 million, its interesting but from the cycling perspective, a pain in the butt.

Cobbles galore, narrow streets, people…

We are heading to Ypres in Belgium. Within 20 km or so we crossed the border at Comines, by the river La Lys.

No signs, just car registration changed from F to B, and the flags changed colours.

Belgian side Comines
Belgian Comines, flea market in progress blocking the image taking.
Lots of little villages
Now ain’t that the truth!!
Beautiful chateau
This church had a small war grave site on the far side.
Mainly English and Canadians
So many unknown soldiers

The peace of the river as we approach Ypres.

There were at least two of these large covered cement structures. Presuming from the war. Very long and would have housed many men.

This is an interesting fountain!

On the outskirts of Ypres are ancient ramparts.

These are the best preserved fortifications in Belgium, dating from the 10th century. They survived WW1 mainly due to their structural thickness.

It is a pretty area of the town.

Ypres, or Leper as it is known in Belgium was annihilated in WWI. All that was left were a few tall spires.

The town was totally rebuilt in the early 1920’s following pay,ent of reparations by Germany. The buildings were constructed following the original blueprints.

I’m thinking these might be remnants from the original church as they are damaged.

Heading out of town, plenty of bike signage. By chance, we’ve followed the Front Route 1914-1918 a fair bit.

It goes past many small war cemeteries.

Then my day took a tumble. Right by this paddock, adjacent to a war cemetery, I tried to make my way in front of a parked van.

I failed to see there was a stinging nettle filled ditch, and bike and I both went down, quite a steep ditch.

I screamed in pain as my right leg was hurting heaps. But worse, my bare arms and legs had nettles all over them.

When I finally wriggled my way out, blubbering, annoyed with myself, I had welts and blisters on both arms and legs.

The worst case of stinging nettle I have ever experienced.

Two blokes that were in the van came out from the cemetery, working for the Commonwealth War Graves.

They noted I was bleeding and insisted on finding their first aid kit and rendering bandages.

They had been working on a wrought iron gate. The bloke on the left is a carpenter, the one on the right a blacksmith.

They had been at my Great Uncles cemetery just a few days before.

It was so nice meeting these blokes, but not in the way it happened.

I was shaking and in pain. I took two anti histamines. Big mistake as I became very drowsy, dizzy, nauseous, vomiting and had two consecutive migraines.

With the migraines, I get the visual aura where I can’t see properly, dizzy and it is triggered by bright light, knocks to the head or stress. I also get a form of epilepsy with a few triggers similar.

We stopped a few times so could just close my eyes.

It was a tough 40 km ride back to Lille. We did manage to make a few tweaks to shorten it.

We ended up doing 82 km vs 88.

This area of Belgium is beautiful. A few more hills, very green open fields.

Killing fields once, the scene of far too many men dying.

Thought this looked like Prince Philip.

Beautiful region.

So many war graves.

Finally we make it to Armentieres. Here he is buried.

I cried. I was feeling miserable anyhow, but was surprised that I was crying for his senseless loss of life. People say that the loss gave us our freedoms, but I seriously hate war.

There are over 2,200 buried in this cemetery alone.

It is peaceful scene now.

I bid Alexander farewell, and we headed back to Lille.

An emotional day.

I’m slow in writing this blog, as when we returned I went to bed and slept for 13 hours straight. Unheard of for me. I’ve awoken early to try and write it.

My back is bitching and I’m drinking black coffee, sitting in cool air to ‘wake me up’.

We have 82 km today. We will see how I feel as there are train options. It might be that we ride to Tournai and reevaluate, as the cool air ( and I think tail wind was forecast!) might help.

We will see.

Thanks for reading 😊🚴❣️

Day 24: Ghent to Lille

We were staying fairly close to the Markt square area, maybe 250 m walk away. Looking out from our balcony you would not know that.

Our host Ben rocked up with fresh fruit and pastry items for breakfast. A really nice guy.

The weather was a cool 12 degrees.

Soon we were off, loosely following the Bovenschelde Canal, that starts up in the Netherlands around Terneuzen (where we caught a ferry to days earlier).

We passed through some nice villages.

This one must love dogs. It is huge.

A roundabout showing a typical bike path around it. Cars give way, unlike home where you are mixing it with the cars. Cyclists safety taken far more seriously here.

Some people say, oh but their roads are better. Nope, often narrower. This roundabout a perfect example.

Today the pack cyclists were out in force. If there was a bike path, they were on it.

The Australian standard is 2.5 metres for a cycle path. No wonder we do not have many. Here we’ve been on some very narrow ones and passed, or waited for the pack cyclists, or other users.

Local brewery with statue.

Local church. I like the pointy spires.

We stop in Oudenaarde for lunch eating leftover breakfast. A lovely fresh baguette with banana.

A nice looking town. We did not venture into the town markt. We could hear loud music, and people were crossing the bridge towards it and we tonight ‘nah’.

The town has a history back to around 900 bc.

The Tour of Flanders is an annual prestigious cycling event and there is a museum in town.

Views from lunch.

We Sat by this fountain
This was in our direct vision 10 metres from the fountain. Make of it what you will. Bit freaky. It is named ‘Titus’.

We then followed a very decent path out of town and through lovely agricultural fields. Wheat and potatoes seemed to be growing.

To our left (east) we saw hills for the first time in weeks really. The Ardennes.

A historical area with a sad military history but the location of many events including cycling.

Ronde van Vlaanderers, also known as the Tour of Flanders, is a gruelling one day monument cycling event.

270 km for men, 170 for women it is renowned for its steep cobbled climbs and punishing crosswinds.

Tadej Pogacar and Mathieu van der Poel have won it six out of the last seven editions.

Arguably the toughest climb is the Koopenberg. It is relentless and has seen far too many accidents and pile ups. Cyclists are often pushing their bikes up.

Turn left? Not on your sweet Nellie! Iconic, yes, but we are on loaded bikes and if the pro’s push their bikes up then why would we try?
I table this as evidence!

If we were centred around here for a few days and could ride unladen, perhaps we would have a look. But we are not, and cobbles are my least preferred surface given my rib bone breakage history.

Back on track!

Cyclists yielding and checking traffic before crossing.

Small group pass by.

We followed the canal for 13 km section, mainly into headwinds.

The cyclists coming the other way were flying. So many had disc wheels (solid covered in type) that make a certain ‘whop whop’ sound. They were doing 40 km ish with the benefit of a tail wind.

Interesting observation. There were very few casual riders along here out for a Sunday ride on their e-bikes. Just did not see them. I am wondering if they avoid this section given the powerful packs that were powering through seeking fast times.

It was being treated like an interval time trial.

At a canal crossing was this interesting hut.

Area board.

Cycling ‘art’.

Cute home.

The canal we were still following. We would soon deviate as we were heading to Roubaix and the canal to Tournai.

Little statue.

Big statue. The light was all wrong here, but sillouette works.

More canal.

Finally into Roubaix. A busy town where we headed to the famous velodrome, the finishing site for the Paris Roubaix famous cycle race.

Like the Tour of Flanders, a monument one day race featuring gruelling cobbles. Roubaix is regarded as the toughest, with sharp cobbles and climbs.

It gets messy.

Dutch and Belgium riders have dominated in recent times. Mathieu van der Poel has won three and this year, Wout van Aert.

We headed to the velodrome, to do a lap. However, turned out the velodrome was hosting a huge soccer carnival and there was not going to be any cycling there today.

Outside the entry gates a huge cobble.

Peaking over the fence from the dyke you can just see the track.

A bit disappointed, but what will be, will be.

Nice park in Roubaix.

The ride from Roubaix to Lille was predominantly on a paved cycle path, running adjacent to the main arterial road.

The two cities are joined, one larger urban area.

The path is intersected by red lights every few hundred metres for about 8 km. I reckon we got every red light.

It took quite a time to do the distance but finally we were in centre Lille.

Photos riding through.

Pleased to find our unit, then the day got hard.

We had been given a series of seemingly easy instructions to follow.

First, press the code to open the front door to the apartment building. Easy.

At the next door, press another code that would go through to the owner, who would open the door remotely.

Did it, but no answer. Tried a few more times, no answer.

We rang him. He said, try again. We did, but we’d now tried so many times it locked us out. He said we needed to wait a while.

Can’t you come down and just let us in? No..he was in southern France.

Waiting, waiting, waiting….try again. Boom, I am in.

Go to the second floor in the lift. I cannot make it work.

I find the fire escape stairwell. Grope around for lights, go up two floors.

Pitch black, grope for more lights, find unit 16.

Next clue, at floor level is a key box. Here I am on my knees, trying to open the key safe. Boom, I have a key.

I open the unit, dump the gear I carried up.

I need to find the garage key, near the spices. I failed.

So I head back to Tony, lock the door but cannot get the key out!

Down the stairs, groping for lights, jamming the coded remote access door open with our luggage, opening the exterior door and jamming it with luggage, and Tony heads up to retrieve the key and search for the garage key.

He succeeded. All up it took 50 minutes to get us sorted.

Lots of colourful language used.

We went to a convenience store and grabbed supplies to cook a simple dinner of omelette and salad.

This unit has a washing machine, so we put a load through.

Tomorrow we do a day ride featuring an interesting family legacy.

94 km today. 2,196 in total.

We are back in France, having crossed the border not far before Roubaix.

Thanks for reading 😊❣️